Just a Ghost.

If you read “Clan of the Cave Bear” you know about the custom of cursing someone with death, and in that culture the curse made them dead. Naturally they weren’t really dead, but because everyone believed them to actually be dead, the people ignored them completely as they wandered around. After some time, the “dead” just walked away, because they thought they were dead, too.

Leaving a place of work/play/involvement after 25 years can be something like that. You leave and then return and you are a kind of ghost. You wander around not really in and not really out. Then one day you just wander away and don’t return. The big difference in this example is that no one is dead. Just gone.
Image: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3570/3382035628_6cff9d112d_o.jpg

Pain at the pumps? Count your blessings!

I pulled up my diesel Hyundai to the pump. Nice little car. Four doors, leg room, sound system, AC and nicely suspended. Fun to drive on mountain roads. Anyway, it took 30 liters to fill (that is roughly 8.1 gallons). Not bad. Economical too. The cost was a whopping 49.5 Euros. In dollars that is roughly SEVENTY ONE. You read right: $71 for 8 gallons of fuel. Do the math and you get $8.8 per gallon. Now, brothers and sisters, THAT is “Pain at the Pumps.” That is also what every European pays for fuel every day, and gasoline is more expensive than diesel.
Yesterday I filled up my Dodge Ram: 18 gallons at $3.59. Sixty four bucks, roughly. I thought about the price in France and figured I got a bargain. In Europe that fill-up would have cost about $158!! The amazing thing is there are some American cars and trucks over there.
My point is this: the next time you fill’er up and think you are feeling pain, think again. The next time you think we pay too much in taxes, think again. You don’t have any idea what “Pain at the Pumps” really is, now, do you?
Image: http://images.huffingtonpost.com/2008-06-08-highgaspricesaffectingeconomyimage.jpg

Kayaking on the Tarn.

We got up early by our French standards and were on the road by 8:30, off to the kayak rental beach on the River Tarn. This is about a 2+ hour trip. We had some good bread, saucisson and jambon, and some drinks for lunch. Sal and I were the neophytes; the rest had at least some river experience. Now for starters, the photo below is not on the part of the Tarn we floated, but I liked the look of it. No, our section of the river had lower “rapids” and we all got through without a spill. Didn’t even require helmets.

A 10k paddle was filled with great scenery, clear water and a steady wind blowing up the gorge. We couldn’t decide who should steer, so we both did. The result was a 10k trip became a 15k trip by the time you figure all the side to side travel. The wind in the bow (do kayaks have a bow?) made steering even more difficult, but we made it to the end. A few moments of heightened anxiety when we went over a small damn, and when we got caught against a rock by the hydrostatic pressure of the water, but all in all a brilliant day.

I wore long sleeves, long pants, Tevas with sunscreen, a broad brimmed hat and sunscreen on face, neck and ears. Sal didn’t cover as much. The good news is everybody else got some sunburn, and we - - nya nya - - didn’t.
It was a tiring day full of fun and companionship. Lots of teens in the crowd to liven things up, and good food too. Plenty of wine when we got home took away the soreness from arms until morning. Then Ibuprofen took over.
Image: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSWinGr7lQVxJ1q08b_a0en3QrS0uKtcGjFs5bcNGz3ihvsUxgcb6qwNSVSX8VhlaPATI513JHj-tYN-x-lYNKMVv4VhlLiGO1xIIvTwRvo3J00walAGgQTtq9ZRhV6_r3YecslTRu29Bz/s1600/DSC_0032.JPG

Food Adventures in France Three: Cheval et Âne

One morning we went to a “market” to shop for food and other things. This kind of market is unlike any I have ever seen in the U.S. Many vendors travel from town to town on a regular route to sell their specialties. Now don’t get the word “specialties” confused with something extraordinary. I mean there are vendors for cheese, meats, sausage, hats, olives, seafood, veggies, fruits, breads, pastries, shoes, kitchen wares, toys, table clothes, and many, many other things. These are like little stores on wheels. Some sell hot items like rotisserie chickens (order in advance or go away without a chook) or pizza. Some give away samples, some don’t. They arrive early in the morning and usually leave by 12 or so. Nearby towns have “markets” on different days so if you know where they are, you always have a source of fresh food. The prices are not cheap, but neither are they outrageous.
At a market in St. Antonin-Noble-Val I noticed a horse decal on the back of a butcher’s truck. And sure enough he had lots of nice lean cuts of horse meat. The filet mignon du cheval looked particularly tasty. Dark and not very fatty. Big. But wow, the price!! Twice that for filet mignon du boef. I mentioned to Sal that I though some Cheval would make a great dinner treat, especially for those with us that loved, cared for and rode horses. She vetoed that. I said I would cook it but not tell anyone what it was. She vetoed that, too. I said “Yes Dear” and moved on. I know when to hold’em and when to fold’em.
Later in the same market, I spotted some saucisson made out of Donkey. Saucisson is a kind of thick, dry sausage common to the region. I didn’t get that either.

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"No Compromise"?

Time for a breather. The President just talked about “compromise” and a news commentator listed all the areas where compromise between the parties would/could occur. The budget/debt crises I am talking about here. Sure Boehner and Obama agreed on a 4.something trillion deficit reduction and the house Republicans killed it by “No Compromise”. The gang of six, and the joint committee earlier both proposed compromises and the house Republicans killed each by “No Compromise”. Many tea partyers went on record saying essentially “let the wheels come off” (don’t extend the debt ceiling). And, oft heard from the Republican side of the isle was “No Compromise on revenue increase.”
So “No Compromise” comes from the Right, while the Left has compromised over and over again. Yes, I know there are hardasses on both sides and ideologues on both sides, but come on now. Every one of you knows that the intransigence of the Right led to the 11th hour “compromise” (read that “Right got 98% of what it wanted” quoting John Boehner, which also means that the Left didn’t get much in the way of compromise, did it?).
And that 11th hour 2.something trillion reduction wasn’t enough. And the process was completely one-sided. Even Boehner was dissed by the Right. How’s that for compromise?
The Tea Party (not a grassroots group at all, but financed quietly by the Koch brothers and other ultra-right billionaires) says that the government should/must be run like a business. I agree. Every business I know focuses on two aspects of operation: One, cut production costs by increasing efficiency and Two, INCREASE REVENUE. So how come the Tea Partyers say “No Compromise” to increasing any revenue at all? Not “One thin Dime”. Huh? Huh? Compromise when I was growing up meant “Give and Take”. Looks to me like the far side of the Right is only interesting in the “Take” part, with “No Compromise” for the “Give”.
http://pschroedcom.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/no-compromise.jpg

Terrified in Ax-les-Thermes

I admit it. I am very uncomfortable on high places, near an edge. I don’t like to stand close to the guard rail at canyons, or on tall buildings. Forget tall bridges. Several years ago I walked up the steps to the top of the Pont-du-Gard, pictured above and started out on the top, also pictured above, to walk across. Never made it. Ended up crouched in the middle, slinking back to the steps. Don’t like HEIGHTS!!!



So, In Ax-les-Thermes there is a ski resort that in the summer caters to sight-seers and mountain bikers. Two lifts take you way, way up the mountain. The first is a closed gondola and the second is a bench with 6 seats and a movable bar to hold you in. No cage, no belts: just a seat, bar and the air. Sally talked me into going up. First ride not too bad. Gondola. Then we realized the second ride would be in an open lift chair. I watched a few people get on and go up, and decided to suck it up and go. The operator spoke only French. So, we waited our turn and watched what to do. We got on the seats and started to pull the bar down when the operator said something loudly. “Pardon?” I pulled the bar down. The footrests immediately got stuck on the edge of the platform and as the chair moved forward, inexorably, the chair began to tip forward, the foot rest being firmly stuck on the platform. The operator screamed something: “Pardon?” She pushed the emergency stop button. The cable stopped, gave a small shudder, and the chair popped lose. We hung there for a minute or so while the operator inspected for damage, then got going.
Suddenly we were flying up the mountain and then, crap!!! we started to go over a deep ravine. The ground was already 50 feet away, and then about 150 feet away. Breathe. Calm. Calm. I loosened my death-grip on the bar, looked straight ahead and around, and began to enjoy the trip. Going back down was fun, and now I look forward to another trip. I also know when and when not to pull down the damn bar.

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http://www.desktops4wallpaper.com/image_gallery/nature_wallpaper_30/city_town_wallpapers_46/france-
http://photos.igougo.com/images/p194832-Breckenridge_CO-My_Parents_on_the_Ski_Lift.jpg

Basilica and Church Music - What a TREAT!!

One of the many cathedrals and basilicas in Europe is the Basilica St Nazaire in Carcassonne. We were looking forward to visiting Carcassonne because it has a complete ancient curtain wall and a very well restored/preserved medieval village and basilica, possibly a cathedral. The term “basilica” refers to the shape of the building and the term “cathedral” is the home church of a bishop or archbishop. Anyway, we got there, parked (not an easy task) and walked up to the moated, draw bridged and portcullesed entrance (no charge to enter) and paid our euros to climb the wall. What a view! We walked around to the internal castle, looked around in that, and headed for the basilica.
I find most ancient churches places of spiritual power, no matter the religion or state of repair. St. Nazaire has this powerful spiritual mein and is in very nice condition, beautiful stained glass windows and lots of soaring columns and great architecture. As we were walking around, we heard some a capella music begin, sort of early monk music, and I said to Sal “there goes the tape”. It was pretty but I though the idea of playing this kind of music was a bit “touristy”. We stopped in the left transept to look at something and as I turned I noticed 4 men standing in the middle singing. No tape. Live. And it sounded familiar. The countertenor was very good, and the basso profundo was to die for. Then I got it: they were singing liturgical music in Russian. This was a Russian a capella group called “Doros” (only 4 when we were there), and they were really good. Goose pimple good.
The Basilica St. Nazaire was spectacular, but the addition of real music made it an even more special visit. In retrospect, I think maybe recorded music might be ok, if not overdone, but the addition of beautiful voices, singing in the near-perfect acoustics of the basilica, was astonishing. Further research showed that this group is at the basilica every summer. Worth a visit the next time you get to Carcassonne.
Image: www. mtholyoke.edu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRjdrOBNHTQ&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogdplCe99ZI&feature=related

Presenting the CIRQUE LONTAN!!!

We were sitting on the lower circle in Cordes-sur-Ciel when a young man came over to the table and handed us a small flyer. I thought “Oh boy, somebody trying to sell us something, or ask for money”. I know, cynical me. He was a member of a small traveling circus from Reunion Island called Le Cirque LonTan. He told us the circus was in town for several days and invited us to come see and have some fun. Later, we heard drums and other instruments, and the circus folks were parading around the town, “drumming” up business. We thought “why not?” and planned to go.
We went, I think, the following evening. Down a narrow lane to a small grassy field; a tarp curtain drawn across the field; a small table with someone selling tickets. We could see the tower for the aeriel acts behind the tarp. Inside, we found no tent and some homemade wooden benches. Lots of kids. A small band started playing and the band leader, now in ringmaster costume came out and introduced the circus with a few magic tricks, all in French. Everybody had a wonderful time, the kids especially. A couple of “curtain fliers”, a mystic walking on glass, a wolf (person inside), and a few other acts. Not exactly the Cirque-du-Soleil, but lots of energy, music, fun and good entertainment. No beer. Their license was only for 3 days and the day we went was not one of them.
If you see the Cirque LonTan someday, stop in and say ‘Hi” to the gang. See the show and enjoy. You might enjoy the YouTube videos to get a feel for a real circus for real people in small venues. What a treat.
Image: Cirque Poster, not very good image.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upVMH0Uu38k&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScH4WLvnmPg

Food Adventures in France: Faux Fillet

One day we decided to look for some steak to grill on the great patio fireplace grill. Filet steak (of the Mignon variety) sounded good so we went to a big grocery story on the way home from somewhere and looked for the meat. WOW! Really pricey. I spotted some rib eyes, bought them, marinated with tasty balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper. Wonderful.
Next time we got an urge for steak we wanted to repeat the rib eye experience, or maybe a sirloin, but what to call them. Turns out rib eyes are called “Faux Filet” (false filet mignon) and sirloin is “Entrecote”. Off to the store. The entrecote looked fatty so I got the butchers attention and asked for faux filet, en français. Very brave. He got out a whole boneless rib eye and gestured with his knife “where to cut”. I kept moving the knife as he began to look surprised. Ended up with a 3 kilo piece, a little over 6 pounds. Brought it home, cut it into seven beautiful steaks, marinated as above, grilled (I think a little too close to medium, but nobody complained) and feasted on Faux Filet. Some good red wine, a salad, potatoes and a veg of some kind and we were all content. Naturally we ended the evening with a bottle of Hypocras. Very, very medieval.
(Interestingly, Wikipedia identifies “faux filet” as sirloin. Not in the part of France we were in. Also interestingly, Google Translator translates “rib eye steak” as "bifteck de faux-filet" )
Image: www. http://fr.123rf.com/photo_3909490_un-boeuf-faux-filet-steak-isol-sur-blanc.html

Food Adventures in France: Hypocras

Since my early years I have read of the Knights of old drinking Mead and Hypocras, and I never thought much about either. Then, one day in a small market in Cordes-sur-Ciel, there was a bottle of Hypocras. The real stuff. Wonderful spicy wine served cold, with a hint of honey. The family finished off several bottles before leaving for home.
When I got home I checked with two very knowledgeable wine guys to see if they had any Hypocras. Blank looks from both. Neither had heard of it. Looked it up: Not listed in supplier’s inventory.
But, Mr. Google (sorry Barbie) found a couple of easy recipes. Both are variants of the same theme: wine (merlot, rose` or white), spices such as pepper, cinnamon, ginger, honey, cloves and others. No cooking, just steeping. I am getting the ingredients together today for a 4 bottle batch. Stay tuned.
Image: www.lecarreaumedieval.hautetfort.com