Basilica and Church Music - What a TREAT!!

One of the many cathedrals and basilicas in Europe is the Basilica St Nazaire in Carcassonne. We were looking forward to visiting Carcassonne because it has a complete ancient curtain wall and a very well restored/preserved medieval village and basilica, possibly a cathedral. The term “basilica” refers to the shape of the building and the term “cathedral” is the home church of a bishop or archbishop. Anyway, we got there, parked (not an easy task) and walked up to the moated, draw bridged and portcullesed entrance (no charge to enter) and paid our euros to climb the wall. What a view! We walked around to the internal castle, looked around in that, and headed for the basilica.
I find most ancient churches places of spiritual power, no matter the religion or state of repair. St. Nazaire has this powerful spiritual mein and is in very nice condition, beautiful stained glass windows and lots of soaring columns and great architecture. As we were walking around, we heard some a capella music begin, sort of early monk music, and I said to Sal “there goes the tape”. It was pretty but I though the idea of playing this kind of music was a bit “touristy”. We stopped in the left transept to look at something and as I turned I noticed 4 men standing in the middle singing. No tape. Live. And it sounded familiar. The countertenor was very good, and the basso profundo was to die for. Then I got it: they were singing liturgical music in Russian. This was a Russian a capella group called “Doros” (only 4 when we were there), and they were really good. Goose pimple good.
The Basilica St. Nazaire was spectacular, but the addition of real music made it an even more special visit. In retrospect, I think maybe recorded music might be ok, if not overdone, but the addition of beautiful voices, singing in the near-perfect acoustics of the basilica, was astonishing. Further research showed that this group is at the basilica every summer. Worth a visit the next time you get to Carcassonne.
Image: www. mtholyoke.edu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRjdrOBNHTQ&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogdplCe99ZI&feature=related

Presenting the CIRQUE LONTAN!!!

We were sitting on the lower circle in Cordes-sur-Ciel when a young man came over to the table and handed us a small flyer. I thought “Oh boy, somebody trying to sell us something, or ask for money”. I know, cynical me. He was a member of a small traveling circus from Reunion Island called Le Cirque LonTan. He told us the circus was in town for several days and invited us to come see and have some fun. Later, we heard drums and other instruments, and the circus folks were parading around the town, “drumming” up business. We thought “why not?” and planned to go.
We went, I think, the following evening. Down a narrow lane to a small grassy field; a tarp curtain drawn across the field; a small table with someone selling tickets. We could see the tower for the aeriel acts behind the tarp. Inside, we found no tent and some homemade wooden benches. Lots of kids. A small band started playing and the band leader, now in ringmaster costume came out and introduced the circus with a few magic tricks, all in French. Everybody had a wonderful time, the kids especially. A couple of “curtain fliers”, a mystic walking on glass, a wolf (person inside), and a few other acts. Not exactly the Cirque-du-Soleil, but lots of energy, music, fun and good entertainment. No beer. Their license was only for 3 days and the day we went was not one of them.
If you see the Cirque LonTan someday, stop in and say ‘Hi” to the gang. See the show and enjoy. You might enjoy the YouTube videos to get a feel for a real circus for real people in small venues. What a treat.
Image: Cirque Poster, not very good image.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upVMH0Uu38k&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScH4WLvnmPg

Food Adventures in France: Faux Fillet

One day we decided to look for some steak to grill on the great patio fireplace grill. Filet steak (of the Mignon variety) sounded good so we went to a big grocery story on the way home from somewhere and looked for the meat. WOW! Really pricey. I spotted some rib eyes, bought them, marinated with tasty balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper. Wonderful.
Next time we got an urge for steak we wanted to repeat the rib eye experience, or maybe a sirloin, but what to call them. Turns out rib eyes are called “Faux Filet” (false filet mignon) and sirloin is “Entrecote”. Off to the store. The entrecote looked fatty so I got the butchers attention and asked for faux filet, en français. Very brave. He got out a whole boneless rib eye and gestured with his knife “where to cut”. I kept moving the knife as he began to look surprised. Ended up with a 3 kilo piece, a little over 6 pounds. Brought it home, cut it into seven beautiful steaks, marinated as above, grilled (I think a little too close to medium, but nobody complained) and feasted on Faux Filet. Some good red wine, a salad, potatoes and a veg of some kind and we were all content. Naturally we ended the evening with a bottle of Hypocras. Very, very medieval.
(Interestingly, Wikipedia identifies “faux filet” as sirloin. Not in the part of France we were in. Also interestingly, Google Translator translates “rib eye steak” as "bifteck de faux-filet" )
Image: www. http://fr.123rf.com/photo_3909490_un-boeuf-faux-filet-steak-isol-sur-blanc.html

Food Adventures in France: Hypocras

Since my early years I have read of the Knights of old drinking Mead and Hypocras, and I never thought much about either. Then, one day in a small market in Cordes-sur-Ciel, there was a bottle of Hypocras. The real stuff. Wonderful spicy wine served cold, with a hint of honey. The family finished off several bottles before leaving for home.
When I got home I checked with two very knowledgeable wine guys to see if they had any Hypocras. Blank looks from both. Neither had heard of it. Looked it up: Not listed in supplier’s inventory.
But, Mr. Google (sorry Barbie) found a couple of easy recipes. Both are variants of the same theme: wine (merlot, rose` or white), spices such as pepper, cinnamon, ginger, honey, cloves and others. No cooking, just steeping. I am getting the ingredients together today for a 4 bottle batch. Stay tuned.
Image: www.lecarreaumedieval.hautetfort.com